A few builders choose to not have a back access panel on their R2 – they just pop the dome off and reach down inside to get to whatever they need to work on. Being that I’m 6′ 7″, doing that is not an option…
So, I opted for a nicely made fiberglass and metal door, provided by a guy in the R2 builder’s group who goes by “Crash”.
This is the door with the laser cut aluminum painted Satin Dover White, which matches the color of the fiberglass- and happens to be what was closest to the screen-used droids. Why not just plain bright white? Details don’t show up (like all the neat panels) on film when brightly lit. So, an off-white was used on R2 in all the films. And for the most part it looks pretty white anyway. Once he’s dirtied up a bit it’ll add to the effect of a well-used droid.
Once the skin was in place and the glue well-cured, it was time to add on the home-made coin returns.
So now that I have the door done, I had to figure out how to keep it attached to the body. My first attempt was using good old cabinet closures….
The idea was to put four in, one basically at each corner. So I tested it by attaching one closure at a time using the screws to the wood frame, and the clip to the door using JB weld.
As I did each one and tested it (after lots of trial and error with the JB Weld not holding well enough, until I let it REALLY cure), it seemed like it would work well. The problem though is because the internal frame is at an angle, as much as one or two closures would work, four would not- geometry was against this plan…
So, back to the drawing board to figure out what else would work. The whole cabinet door idea was still stuck in my head. This time though I went for magnetic closures. And like a charm they worked very well.
One thing I did need to do was add some angle brackets inside the door near the bottom to keep it from slipping down as the droid would be moving along.
More updates as I make progress. Among those will be more on the legs, the feet, and eventually the fully interactive dome!